Thymiopoulos Atma Red 2021

The Atma wines are some of the best value you'll find anywhere. Made by Apostolos Thymiopoulos (arguably the best winemaker in Greece) with fruit purchased from selected small growers, they offer levels of character, quality and interest almost unheard of at this price. The red is 70% Xinomavro from various parcels around Naoussa, in many cases farmed biodynamically and 30% Mandilaria from Santorini. All the grapes are hand picked and fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks with wild yeasts. The wine is aged for eight months in concrete vats before bottling. It has gorgeous cherry fruit, lovely freshness and poise. In other words, this is a delicious, handmade wine from one of the world's top winemakers at a fraction of the price you would normally expect to pay.

Lively, transparent garnet. Ridiculously good value for a wine with such character. The acidity and lift are evident and perhaps you need to have encountered Xinomavro before. Lovely fruit that tastes as though it comes from somewhere relatively cool – so ethereal is it. Then a dry, savoury finish. Very good value.

16.5 points

Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com 23/05/2023