Château Bel Air-Marquis d'Aligre is the last remnant of a vanished era for Bordeaux. Its owner, the truly remarkable Jean-Pierre Boyer, has been in charge since 1950 (that's more than 70 vintages ago at the time of writing). He can still remember helping his father produce the legendary 1947. But what is truly extraordinary is that in all that time, almost nothing has changed here. This is Bordeaux as it once was, and the wines reveal complexities and subtleties of flavour that can no longer find elsewhere. They are true rarities. Enjoy them while you can.
The 2005 Bel-Air Marquis d’Aligre has a strict, backward, tobacco and graphite-tinged bouquet with more black fruit than red, unlike the 2001. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, harmonious and crisp with a fine thread of acidity. There is a gentle build in the mouth, quite linear but delivering a very nuanced, lightly spiced, clove-infused finish. This Margaux is endowed with impressive density compared to other vintages tasted, the fruit veering towards black plums and a hint of balsamic. I admire the transparency of the wine, one that makes you feel as if you are peering directly into the vineyard.
92 pointsNeal Martin, Vinous, 05/2018