Thymiopoulos 2017 Naoussa Vrana PetraRegular price £79
Apostolos Thymiopoulos has a very strong claim to be the world's best producer of Xinomavro. He makes ten different expressions of this great Greek grape, and it’s not unlikely that the number will continue to grow. Vrana Petra is one of the single plot wines that mark the pinnacle of his acheivements. It is made from a tiny vineyard planted around 25 years ago and 200m above sea level on the edge of Trilofos. It is supremely well-balanced with layer upon layer of complexity.
Mid garnet. In terms of colour this splits the difference between Kayafas and Aftorizo 2017s. Round and gorgeous on the nose. Deep flavoured and rather pungent, with a whiff of cordite on the finish. So subtle and as though one is licking pumice stone. But there is lovely ripe fruit before this more demanding sensation. (Slightly sour) plum flavours seem rather Japanese. Less aromatic and less evolved than Aftorizo at this point. Very dry, sandy-textured finish. A real peacock's tail of flavour on the end. Watch out burgundy!
18 pointsJancis Robinson MW, 28/10/2020