Thymiopoulos 2017 Naoussa AftorizoRegular price £69
Apostolos Thymiopoulos has a very strong claim to be the world's best producer of Xinomavro. He makes ten different expressions of this great Greek grape, and it’s not unlikely that the number will continue to grow. Aftorizo is one of the single plot wines that mark the pinnacle of his acheivements. Made in tiny quantities from a small parcel of old (planted in 1966), ungrafted Xinomavro vines in one of the best sites in Naoussa. It is a deeply complex, perfectly balanced red with an entrancing floral perfume. It has great depth of fruit and beautiful, silky tannins. Delicious on release, but this is a serious, ageworthy wine.
Pale ruby – much paler and more orange than the Kayafas. Some shading at the rim. Very composed, well-integrated nose. Somehow the texture of this wine reminds me of corduroy: up and down over grooves with a certain velvetiness and lots of sweetness. Apostolos Thymiopoulous must be so proud of this wine! Very accessible sweet-and-sour tamarind fruit with great breadth and composure. As with the Kayafas you could drink this 'vibrating' wine now but the tannins suggest caution will be rewarded. There's a meaty note too. Obviously this would be lovely with food but it's gentle enough to sip without it too. A little minerally on the end …
17.5 pointsJancis Robinson MW, 28/10/2020