Tetramythos 2017 Phellóe NaturεRegular price £25
Phellóe is a real rarity. Made from a tiny (three acre) vineyard in the mountainous region of ancient Phellóe, near Patras, it is a blend of three Greek varieties. These are old vines - 30% are ungrafted and the vineyard is farmed organically - it has never been sprayed. The wine is made simply. In the glass it is dark and brooding, full of black fruit flavours with a savoury, slightly smoky edge. It is beautifully balanced with a fine texture. Just 2-3 barrels of this wine are made each year.
Deep garnet. Savoury, dark, slightly meaty black fruit, perhaps a touch of smoky/spicy reduction (in a good way). A lovely combination of dark, rocky mineral aromas as well as really dark fruit, becoming delicately floral and peppery with time in the glass. Extremely complex and I haven't even put it in my mouth yet. On the palate, this is dark and dry and fine-grained, no unwanted fruit sweetness but no lack of fruit. Elegant and finely textured, with a restrained but long, fresh finish. A real dark beauty. I am not sure how it will age as this is the first time I have tasted it but the balance of fruit and structure suggest it will age well, if you can resist it now.
17 pointsJulia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, 03/11/2019
Agiorgitiko, Black of Kalavryta, Mavrodaphne. Ancient Phellóe is the location of the vineyard, today called Seliana, east of Patras. Single three acre vineyard bush vines of Agiorgitiko, Black of Kalavryta and Mavrodaphne. 30% ungrafted. Hand harvested. Fermented with native yeasts. Bottled unfiltered after two years of barrel ageing. Just 2-3 barrels made each year.