Tetramythos 2017 Phellóe Nature

Phellóe is a real rarity. Made from a tiny (three acre) vineyard in the mountainous region of ancient Phellóe, near Patras, it is a blend of three Greek varieties. These are old vines - 30% are ungrafted and the vineyard is farmed organically - it has never been sprayed. The wine is made simply. In the glass it is dark and brooding, full of black fruit flavours with a savoury, slightly smoky edge. It is beautifully balanced with a fine texture. Just 2-3 barrels of this wine are made each year.

Deep garnet. Savoury, dark, slightly meaty black fruit, perhaps a touch of smoky/spicy reduction (in a good way). A lovely combination of dark, rocky mineral aromas as well as really dark fruit, becoming delicately floral and peppery with time in the glass. Extremely complex and I haven't even put it in my mouth yet. On the palate, this is dark and dry and fine-grained, no unwanted fruit sweetness but no lack of fruit. Elegant and finely textured, with a restrained but long, fresh finish. A real dark beauty. I am not sure how it will age as this is the first time I have tasted it but the balance of fruit and structure suggest it will age well, if you can resist it now.

17 points

Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, 03/11/2019