R. Lopez de Heredia Rioja Crianza Blanco 'Viña Gravonia' 2012

Pale gold. Open aromas that characterise this long-barrel-aged white: fresh cedary notes, along with an intense aroma of green fruits and citrus and just the beginnings of the character found on the two previous vintages recently tasted – beeswax and honey but no sense of sweetness, of course. Seems fresher than both the 2010 and 2011 with a beautifully clean and still complex palate of taut citrus – lemon and lime – and cedar, freshly felled trees, and a little hint of sour citrus on the finish. Fills the mouth in a way you would not expect at 12.5% alcohol, with the generosity and roundness that I suspect comes more from the barrel than the fruit, although the harvest was late and volume on the low side, which might have added to the richness. Mouth-watering and persistent – the acidity vibrant (and harmonious), suggesting it will age even longer than the 2011. Less obviously oaky on the palate than the 2011. Long, lemon-lime aftertaste. Still very youthful and vibrant for a 9-year-old.

17+ points

Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, 24/05/2021