R. Lopez de Heredia 2007 Viña Tondonia Reserva Tinto

A lot has changed in Rioja in the past twenty years. New oak, younger, simpler, fruit-driven wines. But none of that has touched Lopez de Heredia, the region's most steadfastly traditional producer, and arguably the best. They continue to make wine exactly how they have done for the last 140-odd years. There is no new French oak here - all the barrels are traditional, old American wood. And where most producers release their wine as soon as it qualifies for 'Reserva' status, Lopez de Heredia keep it far longer, only making it available when they believe it is ready. While they make several wines from different vineyards and with different ageing, the Reserva from the Tondonia vineyard is their flagship. The 2005 vintage is outstanding - drinking beautifully now, it could easily go for another 10-20 years.