Nusserhof 2012 Südtirol Lagrein Riserva

In the South Tyrol mountains, tucked away in Italy's extreme north, you will find the city of Bolzano. Right in the town itself, and increasingly surrounded by it, is the tiny Nusserhof estate. Since 1788, the Mayr family have worked this land, steadfastly producing traditional, local wines. The story is remarkable, the wines unique, under-appreciated, and of star quality. The main vineyard is just 2.4 hectares surrounding the family home. Farming is certified organic. In the cellar, fermentation is with wild yeasts, and the wines are aged for extended periods. Several wines are made, all from local grape varieties. The flagship is the red, made from Lagrein. The vines for this wine range from 25 to 80 years old. It is aged in big French oak for 30 months, followed by two more years in bottle before release. With further cellaring it develops great harmony while retaining its bright cherry freshness. It ages slowly and gracefully. A unique wine with a real savoury, chewy, dry cherry flavour, made for the table.

Nusserhof is one of the most remarkable estates I have ever visited. Located right in the center of Bolzano, it looks as if this bustling, growing city is literally going to gobble up the estate in any minute...Within the vineyards, all is calm. The fruit I tasted… is a testament to just how special this site is. And the wines? Well, they are pretty special, too…Nusserhof remains one of the stars not just of Alto Adige, but of Italy.Antonio Galloni

Dark greyish crimson with black core. Very young looking. Peppery dark fruit, deep and brooding. Dry, chewy and savoury, with lovely texture – still firm but starting to show some refinement. Firm, beautifully textured tannins and great freshness. More savoury than the Cobaw Ridge Lagrein 2013 tasted alongside. Dry but surprisingly juicy on the finish. Real authenticity here.

17.5 points

Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, 22/09/2017

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