Lyrarakis Vilana 'Pirovolikes' 2019

For quality and interest relative to value, the wines of Lyrarakis on Crete must be some of the best buys in wine. This Vilana comes from the Pirovolikes vineyard, which consists of thirty year old bush vines, planted at 650m and dry-farmed. It has a lovely golden colour, an intense, deep fruit flavour with hints of spice and the savoury, piney edge you find in the finest Greek whites.

Quite yellow in colour. Intense cedary aroma suggesting a depth and richness – depth of fruit and also oak influence, a little bit spicy and savoury, almost toasty. Rich and ‘golden’ on the palate, notes of bitter orange, cedar and spice. Complex even in youth. On the palate, intense and mouth-watering, high acidity balanced by the depth of fruit and the creamy, complex roundness that seems to be both the wood influence as well as the intensity of fruit. Intense and long.

17 points

Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, 06/10/2021