Lyrarakis 2018 Vidiano Ippodromos
Vidiano is traditional to Crete, one of several local varieties that Lyrarakis have plucked from obscurity. Their version of it is revelatory. Fermented in French oak, it combines richness with a tangy fruit character that marks it out as first rate. Not only is it wonderful to drink on release, it clearly has the potential to develop even more complexity with bottle age.
This continues to be one of my favourite Lyrarakis wines. It has the creamy, spicy richness of barrel ferment but that does not overwhelm the varietal character, which is mouth-watering citrus and green fruits and tangy quince. There's stone fruit too and a long creamy finish and much more complexity to come with time in bottle. You could enjoy it now but I don't think it is showing its all yet. Deep, long and nicely chewy.
17.5 pointsJulia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, 01/03/2018
Ippodromos vineyard is at 610m altitude. Fermented in French oak for two weeks, then kept in barrel on lees for a further two months.