Lyrarakis 2018 Melissaki 'Gero-DetiRegular price £18.95
The wines of Lyrarakis are some of the most interesting and best value being made anywhere, offering a brilliant introduction to the native grape varieties that abound in Greece. Melisssaki is another grape they have rescued, and here it is used to make an orange wine that is the ideal advert for the style. It has an intoxicating aroma reminiscent of apricot and orange, and a lovely savoury quality. It has superb intensity, balance and freshness, with not a note out of place. If you think you don't or won't like orange wine, try this.
Deep gold. The increased skin contact has made this an even more exciting wine than the first two vintages, enhancing the honeyed character of the variety. The citrus flavours here are closer to orange than lemon and there's lively spice with a firm but not excessive tannic grip and plenty of freshness to balance the depth of fruit and the decisive tannins. All that spiced orange on the palate becomes more honeyed and spicy on the long finish, yet bone dry. Delicious.
17.5 pointsJulia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, 24/03/2019