Hatzidakis 2017 SkitaliRegular price £49
Before he tragically took his own life in August 2017, Haridimos Hatzidakis, Santorini's artisan winemaker, selected a single tank of his best Assytiko to be left on its lees for twelve months. This was to have been the latest in a long line of innovative wines. His assistant winemaker kept the tank as he wished, and it was bottled as Skitali. It immediately became one of Greece's finest wines, a fitting legacy for the inspirational Hatzidakis. It is now made each year in the same way, and continues to astound. The time on lees gives the wine incredible depth and great texture. A multi-dimensional, fascinating wine.
Pale gold. Deep, ripe, spicy and golden, the aromas of bottle age starting to be revealed in baked apple and pear (not oxidative though) and cedar (not oak). Plus there's a hint of rosemary. On the palate, massive tension that is both acidity and the slight grip in the texture. There’s no lack of fruit even if it is no longer primary; the texture is key here. There’s a light phenolic grip, a graininess and no astringency.
17.5 pointsJulia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, 17/11/2020