Hatzidakis 2016 Mavrotragano (magnum)Regular price £89
If it weren't for Haridimos Hatzidakis, there would probably be no Mavrotragano. This obscure Santorini grape (previously only used for sweet wine) had all but disappeared until he resurrected it on the hunch that it could make a world-class dry red. It remains rare, occupying just 2% of vineyard space on the island, but the wines it makes are clearly very special - none more so than those by Hatzidakis himself. With lovely red fruit, well-judged oak and a spicy, slightly rustic character, it is a wonderful wine with a touch of Côte-Rôtie about it.
Mid crimson. Smokily reductive and a touch meaty. Savoury, dry and a lovely chalky texture. Dark-red fruits. Almost charry but not oaky-charry. Chewy yet relatively finely textured for this variety.
16.5 pointsJulia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, 30/01/2020