Hatzidakis 2015 MavrotraganoRegular price £34
If it weren't for Haridimos Hatzidakis, there would probably be no Mavrotragano. This obscure Santorini grape (previously only used for sweet wine) had all but disappeared until he resurrected it on the hunch that it could make a world-class dry red. It remains rare, occupying just 2% of vineyard space on the island, but the wines it makes are clearly very special - none more so than those by Hatzidakis himself. With lovely red fruit, well-judged oak and a spicy, slightly rustic character, it is a wonderful wine with a touch of Côte-Rôtie about it.
Really quite subtle, evolved nose that says more ‘mature red’ than anything strongly varietal. Rather more burgundian than anything else – or maybe Côte Rôtie?! Fine wine by any measure. Though it tastes older than 18 months…
17 pointsJancis Robinson MW, Jancis Robinson.com, 25/04/2017
Vineyards in the villages of Pyrgos, Megalochori and Akrotiri, between 50 and 220m. Ungrafted vines. Aged in French oak for around 18 months and stainless steel for six. Unfiltered.