Frank Cornelissen 2019 Munjebel Bianco

Frank Cornelissen's wines deserve the attention of every serious wine lover. He is one of the great figures in the natural wine world, but whether you are a fully signed-up naturalista or not, these are wines you don't want to miss. They are the best in Sicily, and some of the best in Italy. Frank makes wine in the simplest possible way, which is also the most difficult. He strives to avoid every unnecessary intervention in both vineyard and winery, and he does this without the wines ever losing their precision. They are very skilfully made. Munjebel is his flagship wine, and the white is a 50-50 blend of Grecanico Dorato (otherwise known as Garganega, the grape of Soave) and Carricante from 40 year old vines. It is a complex, appley wine that reveals many layers of complexity with time in the glass.

Pale gold. Complex aroma that is both slightly sour and a little bit like baked apples but not oxidative. Clean and fresh and a hint of smoky reduction. Intense and salty on the palate, clean and crisp but with broad fruit flavours. Super-fresh. Sour and refreshing.

16.5 points

Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, 02/02/2021

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