Dominio do Bibei Lalama 2019

Ribeira Sacra feels like the edge of the world for wine. Vertiginous, rocky slopes reach up into the Atlantic fog, and just driving a Land Rover up here can be a terrifying challenge. Dominio do Bibei are one of a handful of pioneering producers bringing these amazing wines to a wider audience. Their vineyards are steeply terraced and at altitudes of up to 670m. There is little topsoil; the vines have to fight their way down through the rocky slate. This wine, Lalama, is 90% Mencía, the rest being Mouratón and Garnacha Tintorera. It is joyful and delicate, wonderfully floral and aromatic. On the palate it has the softness of Burgundy and the freshness and minerality of Loire Cabernet Franc. Somehow, it evokes the landscape it comes from. It is released ready to drink, but there is no rush and it could easily be cellared for another five years.