Anselmo Mendes 2019 Contacto Alvarinho
Anselmo Mendes is a master of Alvarinho. Contacto is so named because it's given twelve hours of skin contact and four months of lees ageing. This treatment gives a beautifully restrained renditiion which is something like Alvarinho as we know it but with elements of Chablis. There is all the floral, fruity quality you would expect on the nose, but on the palate there is a real textural, stony quality to it that elevates it to a superior level.
A little more subdued than the Muros Antigos but smells deeper, with those same pear-fruit aromas. The skin contact has given a light friction balanced by the creamy lees effect. Long, sour-fresh finish. Mouth-watering. Great texture and length.
17 pointsJulia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, 27/02/2020
12 hours on skins. Four months on lees.