Alpha Estate Ecosystem Xinomavro Reserve Vielles Vignes Single Block 'Barba Yannis' 2015

Alpha Estate make a wide range of quality wines, but the best is their (very) old vine Xinomavro, Barba Yannis. It comes from a single 3.7 hectare vineyard, planted with ungrafted vines on the Amyndeon Plateau in 1919. It is fermented with yeasts from the vineyard and aged on its lees for 24 months in French oak. This simply serves to enhance, rather than eclipse, the breathtaking intensity of fruit from these century-old vines. Unmistakably Xinomavro, it is capable of gaining enormous complexity with bottle age. A Greek wine classic.

Mid to deep ruby. Inviting and classic Xinomavro aromas of red fruit, dried tomato, olive and spice and still so much fruit. Firm and dry and mouth-watering. A terrific example of the intensity and incipient complexity of this wine, which is powerful but still beautifully fresh. Benchmark Xinomavro, the tannins starting to be smoothed thanks to the oak but not overt oak flavours. Intense, long and deeply satisfying even though it is just a baby. This may not be Alpha's icon wine but it is my favourite.

18 points

Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, 15/05/2019