Lyrarakis 2019 Thrapsathiri ArmiRegular price £20
For quality and interest relative to value, the wines of Lyrarakis on Crete must be some of the best buys in wine. Their Thrapsathiri (an obscure local variety) is a prime example. Grown in the Armi vineyard at 500m altitude, it is fermented in old oak and has a wonderful combination of richness and energy. It is at the same time both powerful and refreshing.
There's a definite impression of spicy oak on the nose but it doesn't overwhelm the citrus and stone fruit. Quite oaky on the palate and needs time for the oak to recede, though there is a very nice touch of orange on the palate. Firm, chewy and classy, the oak and the fruit in harmony for the longer term. Powerful, deep but fresh. Long and satisfying.
17 pointsJulia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, 20/05/2020