Lyrarakis 2018 Assyrtiko VoilaRegular price £13.50
If you've been lucky enough to drink Assyrtiko from Santorini for a while, you'll know it's world-class wine. You may also have noticed that prices have finally started to rise. Fortunately, your everyday Assyrtiko needs can still be catered for - but you're going to have to look elsewhere. Lyrarakis on Crete are a brilliant winery with a focus on indigenous Greek varieties. Their rendition of Assyrtiko is broader and more approachable than some of the tightly-wound examples on Santorini, but it's no less drinkable for that.
Restrained herbal and lemony nose, full and dense, firm in the mouth and it becomes drier and more chalky on the finish. Excellent concentration without heaviness. Spice and a sour-salty freshness, impressive persistence. Not quite as extraordinary as the best Assyrtikos from Santorini but concentrated, dry and with a long stony aftertaste. Shows how good this variety can be elsewhere in Greece. The best vintage of this wine I have tasted so far.
17 pointsJulia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, 24/03/2019
From the Vóila vineyard in Sitia, eastern Crete at 580m above sea level. Fermentation over 15 days in stainless steel tank, no oak.