High in the Sierra de Gredos, the mountains around Madrid, small plots of old Garnacha (Grenache) vines have been painstakingly kept for generations, their wines casually made at the co-op and drunk by the locals. A new generation of producers, led by Comando G (one half of whom, Daniel Landi, also makes wine under his own label) are changing that. Inspired by the great wines of Burgundy and the southern Rhône, they are making some of the most exciting wines in Europe. With a focus on preserving the intrinsic quality of the fruit from these old, high altitude vineyards, they are redefining Spanish Garnacha along the lines of Pinot Noir. These are ethereal and elegant wines with layers and layers of complexity. Do not miss them.