Lyrarakis 2019 Assyrtiko 'Voila'Regular price £14
If you've been lucky enough to drink Assyrtiko from Santorini for a while, you'll know it's world-class wine. You may also have noticed that prices have finally started to rise. Fortunately, your everyday Assyrtiko needs can still be catered for - but you're going to have to look elsewhere. Lyrarakis on Crete are a brilliant winery with a focus on indigenous Greek varieties. Their rendition of Assyrtiko is broader and more approachable than some of the tightly-wound examples on Santorini, but it's no less drinkable for that.
There's definitely the stony/steely/dusty character of this variety but also a marked note of pure citrus, even a dash of lime and spice. Power and drive on the palate, tension and excellent freshness. Shows that you can make very good Assyrtiko on Crete not just on Santorini. Salty and mouth-watering on the long finish. Bone dry and perfectly balanced with good length.
16.5 pointsJulia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, 22/07/2020