Thymiopoulos Naoussa Xinomavro 'Vrana Petra' 2018

Apostolos Thymiopoulos is the undisputed master of Xinomavro. He makes at least ten different expressions of this great Greek grape, mostly from a range of sites around the town of Naoussa, its home. At the pinnacle of the range sit three single vineyard Naoussas: Aftorizo, Kayafas and Vrana Petra, each made from a particularly special vineyard. These are among the finest wines in Greece, and comparisons with the very best Barolo are wholly justified.

Vrana Petra comes from a tiny, amphitheatre-shaped vineyard that sits 200m above sea level on the edge of Trilofos, where it is cooled by the air coming down Mount Vermio. The vines are around 25 years old, farming is organic with some biodynamic principles incorporated. The winemaking is kept simple. Half the grapes are destemmed, fermentation is with wild yeasts and the wine is matured for a year in 500l French oak before bottling. The special quality of the vineyard shines through in the finished wine. Taut, graceful and very fine, this is a world-class Xinomavro, capable of improving over at least 15 years in the cellar.