A lot has changed in Rioja in the past twenty years. New oak, younger, simpler, fruit-driven wines. But none of that has touched Lopez de Heredia, the region's most steadfastly traditional producer, and arguably the best. They continue to make wine exactly how they have done for the last 140-odd years. There is no new French oak here - all the barrels are traditional, old American wood. And where most producers release their wine as soon as it qualifies for 'Reserva' status, Lopez de Heredia keep it far longer, only making it available when they believe it is ready. While the wines from the large (100+ hectare) 'Tondonia' vineyard are the most widely available and best-known, the far smaller (15 hectare) El Bosque site yields a wine of equal quality released under the 'Bosconia' label. Aged for five years in old oak before a further period of at least five more years in bottle, this is a gorgeous, mature and classic Reserva Rioja.