Markovitis 1999 Chateau Pegasus NaoussaRegular price £29
Xinomavro, Greece's best red grape, is always said to be Barolo-like, both in flavour and ageing potential. But old bottles are actually very rare, and opportunities to experience a fully-mature example from a top producer do not come along often. The Markovitis Winery (formerly known as Chateau Pegasus) sits just outside the town of Naoussa, the home of Xinomavro. Beneath the winery is a vast cellar, piled high with vintages dating back decades. This 1999 has been lying there since it was bottled. It's a standout example of fully mature Xinomavro, aged in perfect conditions and drinking at its peak.
Now mature at age 19, this is savoury and quite elegant, with an earthy, spicy quality and some cherry and raspberry fruit, as well as a bit of tomato savouriness. It has some waxy, nutty old wine characters and a supple, refined sort of character. This is fully mature and quite delicious, and still has some structure. Nice to be able to find mature Xinomavro like this.
92/100Jamie Goode, wineanorak.com
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