'The greatest rosé in the world' (Robert Parker) is back. There is so much Provence rosé around now - pale, almost colourless, light, almost flavourless - it's hard to distinguish one from the other. But then there's Tempier's Bandol Rosé, a different category of wine altogether. This has got flavour, depth, elegance in spades. If you can resist drinking it immediately, it also develops amazing complexity with bottle age. But who can wait?