Chianti can be bewildering. There are many producers, and their approach, style and quality varies widely. It is worth persevering, because when it's just right there is no more perfect wine for the table. The best examples have a savoury streak running through them that works so beautifully.
On the hill overlooking the medieval hamlet of Monteraponi is the farmhouse and winery of the same name. It is centuries old, but it was only in 2003 that the current owner, Michele Braganti, decided to stop selling his Chianti Classico fruit off to other growers and start bottling his own wine.
In the relatively short time since, Monteraponi has established itself as one of the finest producers in the entire Chianti region. At around 570m altitidue, the vineyards are among the highest in Chianti Classico, and the winemaking is traditional and low-tech. Fermentation is done with wild yeasts in concrete vats, and the wines are then aged in large old oak barrels. They are bottled unfined and unfiltered.
Deep ruby. Impressive nose of concentrated, focused cherry fruit. Tangy, almost racy cherry fruit on the palate, too. Supple, elegant and concentrated. Complete.
17 pointsWalter Speller, JancisRobinson.com
The 2017 has just been released. It is a lovely, vivid wine that delivers everything you most want from a Chianti: fresh cherry fruit, silky tannins and that trademark savoury quality that continually draws you back to the glass.
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