Ungrafted old vine Xinomavro, new from Thymiopoulos

Apostolos Thymiopoulos has a very strong claim to be the world's best producer of Xinomavro. He makes ten different wines from this great Greek grape, and it seems unlikely that he is going to stop there. His entry-level Jeunes Vignes is an all-time bestseller, while Earth & Sky remains a benchmark priced in the mid-range. But if you're a serious Greek wine fan (that's me) then what you have been waiting for is Aftorizo. This is the first of three wines that mark the pinnacle of Thymiopoulos' achievements, and which aim to put Xinomavro on a par with the world's greatest red wines.

Aftorizo comes from a tiny vineyard of ungrafted vines that are over 50 years old and planted at 450m altitude in Naoussa, the home of Xinomavro. From this, Apsostolos has crafted a world-class wine in his trademark style. It is a deeply complex, perfectly balanced red with an entrancing floral perfume. It has great depth of fruit and, as with all Thymiopoulos wines, beautiful, silky tannins. It is already harmonious and approachable, but there is so much still to come - it will easily improve over the next ten years.