Stunning Jura Chardonnay from Domaine du Pélican

Not content with making some of Burgundy's best wines at Domaine d'Angerville, in 2012 Guillaume d'Angerville and François Duvivier turned their attention to the Jura wine region and started Domaine du Pélican. From the start, all the farming was biodynamic, and the wines superb. But they have just kept on getting better. Domaine du Pélican is now undoubtedly one of Jura's foremost estates. As Julia Harding MW puts it, these are "stunning wines with all the freshness and character of the Jura’s best, like polished diamonds".

Grand Curoulet is one of the best terroirs in Arbois, and the grapes for this particular wine, which is made in a conventional 'topped-up' or non-oxidative style, are grown in a north-facing parcel located on the side of a hill above the Saône plain. Fermented in foudres and barrels, then aged in 500-litre old oak, the 2019 is a serious, vibrant wine with many layers of complexity that unfurl in the glass. It would rival some seriously expensive white Burgundy, but has a personality that could only come from the Jura.

This has the salty aroma of the straight Chardonnay plus more fresh and stony citrus with a touch of green fruits and herbs. Crisp but rounded and just a little creamy in the mouth, great tension and freshness. Light on its feet but with underlying power. Tightly coiled and with enormous persistence.

17.5 points

Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, 23/02/2021

Available to pre-order now, this is expected to arrive next week.