Silky, intense, elegant red from the Jura. Made by one of Burgundy's greatest names.

Silky, intense, elegant red from the Jura. Made by one of Burgundy's greatest names.

If you ever find yourself making a list of the best producers in Burgundy, Marquis d'Angerville will be on it. A biodynamic pioneer based in Volnay, the wines are, in the words of Clive Coates MW, “exemplary: pure terroir specific, elegant and intense”. It has been one of the top domaines in the region for decades. But we're not in Burgundy today, we're 80km east, in the foothills of the Jura mountains.

Not content with making some of Burgundy's best wines, in 2012, Guillaume d'Angerville and François Duvivier turned their attention to the Jura wine region and started Domaine du Pélican. Their vineyards include five hectares previously belonging to the legendary Jacques Puffeney (now retired) and everything is farmed biodynamically. As you might expect, the wines were outstanding from the start. And they just keep getting better.

Trois Cépages has become their best-known wine, a blend of Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard - the three great red varieties of this tiny but complex region. If you are looking for somewhere to start with exploring Jura, there is no better wine than the 2018 to draw you in.

Light to mid crimson, a little darker than the Pinot Noir and even more tangy, if more severe in its tight freshness. Intensely bright and pure. It is a little more herbal and a little sweeter fruited, but the fruit is lifted and pure. Silky, a little spicy and with impressive intensity for a wine that at first seemed so delicate. Endless and fresh, utterly mouth-watering.

18 points

Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com

This lovely, remarkable wine is now available to pre-order. Stock is expected to arrive next week. Don't miss it.

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