Seventy year old vines, nine years in the cellars of Cahors

Seventy year old vines, nine years in the cellars of Cahors

Hello from the past. I am writing this a week ago, hoping that by the time you read it I will be on a short break and the world will not have changed so much that authentic, interesting, mature wine is no longer welcome. If that's the case then you're in luck. I have a wine from South West France to share with you which has spent nine years gently maturing in the cellars and is now making beautiful autumn drinking...

Matthieu Cosse and Catherine Maisonneuve have fifteen hectares of vineyard near Cahors, which they farm biodynamically. As well as Malbec (the grape of Cahors, known locally as Cot), they have other varieties including a small parcel of seventy year old Merlot vines. This old vineyard provides most of the blend for Les Beraudies. It must have started life in 2011 as a very rich red. Following seven years of ageing in old oak and concrete, then a little more in bottle, it still has enormous reserves of deep, plummy, fruit flavour and a silky richness, but the tannins are soft and the wine harmonious. This is mature Merlot from a hot climate, but what really impresses is its freshness and life, with lovely acidity cutting through all that ripe fruit and making it both rich and refreshing.

It is a great buy for drinking now. Don't miss it.

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