Mature parcel of Timorasso from La Colombera. A masterclass in balance, drinking at its peak.

Timorasso is a rare grape variety from the Alessandria province of Piemonte. Historically it was renowned for producing top quality wines, but when vineyards were replanted in the early 20th century, post-phylloxera, it was largely replaced with the higher yielding Cortese. Thanks to a handful of dedicated producers convinced of its world-class quality, the last few decades have seen it re-emerge. It has taken on something of a cult status, and bigger names are now becoming interested (we have a few bottles of Roagna's Derthona, for example). In the right hands it is a variety capable of producing subtle, ageworthy and beautifully balanced whites. In fact, it is responsible for some of the finest, most engaging Piemonte white wines we've tasted in recent years. And here is a prime example.

La Colombera is owned and run by Elisa Semino. Together with her father and brother she has made the estate into a leading Timorasso specialist in the heart of the Colli Tortonesi DOC, where the best vineyards lie. Her 2015 Derthona is in a beautiful place right now. The quote below from Jancis Robinson was written in 2017. Since that time, the wine has taken on a lovely, almost waxy complexity - somewhat reminiscent of aged white Bordeaux. But it retains its mineral freshness and subtlety. It is a masterclass in balance, drinking at its peak.

Firm and dense on the nose. Some greenness but mainly the body and structure of Timorasso. Long and satisfying. Great balance and already approachable. Long and noble.

17 points

Jancis Robinson MW, 15/05/2017

We have 36 bottles available. It's arriving next week, so order now and we'll deliver as soon as it gets here.