Greece's great red grape at its peak - Foundi 2013 Estate Xinomavro

We've said it before, and no doubt we will say it again. Ximomavro is Greece's greatest red grape variety. It is distinctly Greek, but comparisons with Italy's Nebbiolo are irresistible. For a start, both varieties produce wines with similar flavours and structure (although Xinomavro also has a characteristic hint of tomato). And both are built to age, with the best unfurling slowly in the bottle over many years.

Foundi is a small, traditional producer in Naoussa making beautiful Xinomavro. They are also one of the few quality producers who keep and then release older vintages. One such wine is the 2013 Estate bottling. This was made from a single 1.5 hectare vineyard, spent a year in oak, and has now had seven further years in bottle. We took a small amount of this at the end of last year and were hugely impressed. It seems to have reached a perfect point in its evolution. It has a lovely richness, fine, powdery tannins and fresh acidity, all overlaid with the complex earthy flavours you only get with age.

We have more of this wine arriving next week, and (this is where the comparison with top Nebbiolo ends) for a lovely, mature example, it is a bargain.

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