Freshness, subtlety and staying-power on Santorini

If you need a reason to drink more wine from Greece's unofficial Grand Cru, Santorini, then this might be it. The news from the island is that prices will soon be rising sharply. There have been a series of low yields as well as increasing demand from developers for land to build on. To justify keeping the vineyards and make up for the shortfall in fruit, growers are demanding more - in some cases 50% more. To be fair, these fine wines have been seriously undervalued for years, but now is definitely a good time to buy, while they still offer incredible value.

We have just received fresh stock of one the best wines on Santorini, Argyros' Cuvée Monsignori, 2017. Matthew Argyros is an exceptional winemaker, and the whole range is stellar. But Monsignori is particularly special. From the estate's oldest vines (200+ years of age), it is partly (5%) fermented in oak, which gives it wonderful balance. You get all the minerality and power of old vine Assyrtiko with just a little softness. It is a beguiling combination.

Beautiful, light-footed intensity. The freshness is so marked it is almost spicy, but it is fully integrated. Full of energy and pure, pure non-fruity fruit. Great length and finesse with underlying power. Some lees creaminess in the texture but overridden by the minerality.

17.5 points

Julia Harding MW
Real freshness and subtlety. Lighter than most of these other varieties. Super-cool and fresh. Very smart label. Really beautiful wine.

17 points

Jancis Robinson MW

As one of the finest examples of one of the world's greatest wine styles, something that could age for ten years plus (entirely optional - it's wonderful now) the current price of under £30 is a bargain.