Extraordinary, distinctive, Radikon

Greetings from Devon where this week we're drinking something a little - or perhaps a lot - different...

In 1995 Stanko Radikon decided that conventional winemaking methods didn't do the grape varieties of his corner of north-east Italy justice. Instead, he decided to revert to his grandfather's way of making wine, and so set Radikon on the path to producing some of the most extraordinary and distinctive wines in Italy.

The now iconic blue label bottlings are orange wines at the extreme end of the scale, with extensive periods of skin contact followed by ageing in both barrel and bottle before release. The 'S' range, of which this Pinot Grigio is a part, represent a small compromise, with maceration for weeks rather than months, and maturation in cask for months rather than years. The wine is still wildly different, but far more approachable and immediately delicious.

At first sight, it's hard to believe this is Pinot Grigio. The colour is somewhere between pink and orange, it is hazy and has an amazingly intense sour freshness, and some tannic grip. It is a wonderful introduction to some of the world's most extraordinary wines. Don't miss it.