Captivating and stupendously drinkable Fleurie from Julien Sunier

Julien Sunier has gone from being rising star to firmly established as one of the best producers in Beaujolais. Following in the footsteps of pioneers like his friends Marcel Lapierre and Jean-Paul Thévenet, he works organically in the vineyard and takes a hands-off but quality-focused approach in the winery. These are wines of the highest standard, made like top Burgundy.

His Fleurie is from a 1.7 hectare plot of 25-60 year old vines on granite soils. It is fermented with wild yeasts and aged in 228l old oak barrels for between eight and eleven months. It is bottled unfiltered, with a tiny addition of sulphur to preserve its freshness. It is a gorgeous, stupendously drinkable wine - instantly captivating with its red berry fruit aromas, fine balance and sense of place.

The 2021 is on its way here, expected next week. For the price I doubt there is a finer wine in Beaujolais - or Burgundy for that matter. And although it is instantly delicious, it undoubtedly has the bones to evolve into something even more harmonious and complex with a few years.