I spend a lot of time in this newsletter championing overlooked European regions and long lost grape varieties. But sometimes you just can't beat the classics. And there are great stories to be uncovered there too - of a generation of young producers returning to traditional methods to make the very best wines they can, sometimes with extraordinary results...
Eleni & Edouard Vocoret specialize mainly in single-site ‘village’ level wines, but they have quickly reached the levels of some of the Chablis greats ... and are making some of the most exciting wines in the regionJamie Goode, WineAnorak
Edouard Vocoret is from a well-known Chablis-producing family (Vocoret et Fils). In 2012, his father gave him five hectares of vineyard and he started his own domaine with his Greek-German wife, Eleni (previously assistant winemaker to Chablis legend Vincent Dauvissat). From the start, the focus was on quality and tradition, and from the very first vintage the wines were special.
In the vineyard, Eleni and Edouard's work is all about conscientious farming with the aim of expressing terroir. The traditional approach is carried through to the winery, with wild yeast fermentations and old oak rather than stainless steel. This is Chablis with personality, where minerality and crisp acidity are balanced by the smoothing effect of old barrels. The wines are brimming with complexity, belying their modest 'village' appellation. As Jamie Goode has indicated, these are wines that are already knocking on the door of the Chablis greats. If you wished you'd bought Raveneau and Dauvissat before the prices skyrocketed, this is a producer to look at right now, without delay.
Le Bas de Chapelot is a three hectare vineyard just below the Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre. The vines are around 40 years old. The wine itself has all the typical stony, fresh quality associated with Chablis, but backed by weight and texture that mark it out as special.